Custom Men’s Costume Gauntlet Gloves, Part 2

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Be sure to check out part 1 of this two-part gauntlet glove tutorial.

If you bought Butterick’s Historical Gloves Pattern B5370, mentioned in part 1, the instructions will be a big help in making these gauntlet gloves…if you can understand what they’re telling you to do. I’ll explain the steps below with some additional steps added for the gauntlet.

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Using chalk, trace your glove pattern pieces onto the “wrong” side of the fabric. The wrong side is the non-glossy side that will be inside the glove when finished.

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My gauntlet pattern is the exact size of the gauntlet, so I added about a 5/8″ to each side to allow for my seams. I added about an extra 2″ to the wide gauntlet opening to allow it to fold over the gauntlet.

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To save cutting time for the gauntlets, I pinned the “right” side of the fabric together and cut them both out at the same time. The right side of the fabric is the glossy side. I cut out all the other pieces separately and did one glove at a time to keep the pieces from getting mixed up.
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Here are all the pieces you’ll have when done. I added the piece above the thumb to use as a spacer if the gloves turn out to be too tight. I’ll use it to close the front and back of the glove on the outside of the pinky fingers (marked F).
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Trace the finger lines from the original pattern to the glove body using white chalk and then cut them.
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Fold the gussets with the right sides together and sew at an angle along the slanted sides.
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Fold the thumb with the right sides together and sew just the top of the thumb. Leave the bottom open.
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Pin the opening of the thumb to the glove body. The right sides should be facing each other and you should be looking at both wrong sides of the thumb and glove body. The thumb opening on the thumb will probably be larger than the thumb opening on the glove, so you may have to stretch it while you’re both pinning it and sewing it to keep it from bunching. Sew one seam, pulling the pins out as you go. Then take it out of the sewing machine, turn it right side out, and then try it on. If it fits and the seam looks good, sew another seam to reinforce it. Be careful while you’re sewing the circular seam that the material doesn’t bunch up. Go slowly and adjust the material as you go to make sure you’re not accidentally sewing any folds.

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Now comes the hard part. Pin the gussets in place between the fingers. The pattern instructions have you pin all of them upfront. I found it easier to do one at a time, so I could sew without getting poked by pins. Make sure the flat sides are pinned only to the top side of the glove. The top is the side without the thumb hole. The flat side of the gusset will run down one finger and then run up the next finger on the same side of the glove. The curved sides of the gusset get pinned to the bottom side of the glove and will also run down one finger and up the next. Sew the sides of the fingers. Only sew one seam.

Before moving on to the next gusset, turn the glove right side out and try it on. Check it to make sure the seam is good and the finger is straight. Then turn it inside out and move on the the next gusset, checking after each one to make sure the glove fits. I worked from the pointer finger to the pinky and then decided to add my spacer for extra room in the glove. Again, the spacer attaches to the space between the back and front of the pinky, basically closing up the glove body.  Once all fingers are attached and the glove fits nicely and doesn’t look warped, turn it inside out and sew an additional seam to reinforce all the fingers and the spacer.

I found it easier to close the tops of the fingers and to reinforce the bottom area between the fingers by hand after I was done all the gussets. At the top, not only do you have to sew the gussets to the back and the front of the glove, but you also have to sew the tips of the front and back fingers together. For the middle finger, I wanted some extra room, so I sewed the tips of the gussets together to form a U shape over the finger and then sewed the top and bottom of the glove to the shape of the U. If you have a pair of gloves with gussets, it’s very helpful to look at the tips of the fingers to get an idea of what you are trying to achieve.

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This is what your glove should look like when all the fingers are done. You can see the seam running down just under the pinky finger. Without the spacer, that seam would have had to stretch all the way to the front side of the glove. That probably would have worked with this stretchy material, but I didn’t want the gloves to be too tight.

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The tip of the pointer finger on this one came out a little flat on the right side, so I turned it inside out and sewed another seam to give it more of a curve.
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To give the gauntlet some stiffness, I decided to use craft foam. Depending on the size of your gauntlet, you may need a larger sheet. Take your gauntlet pattern with you to the store to make sure you get the right size. For my 7″ gauntlet, I needed a 12″ x 18″ sheet of craft foam.
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Lay the pattern piece against the craft foam. I put it up against the edge, so that was one less side I had to cut.
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I traced the pattern onto the foam using a regular pencil. The lines were perfectly visible against the black foam.
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For my last pair of gloves, I sewed the two ends of the foam together. It was a lot of work and it didn’t keep the foam from folding at the seam, making the seam visible through the pleather. This time, I decided to try just taping the two ends together using black duct tape, since the outer fabric will be enough to keep the two ends from pulling apart. I started by laying one side onto a strip of duct tape.

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Once the one side is on the duct tape, fold over the other side and carefully lay it onto the duct tape. Make sure the two sides of the foam are flush against each other with no overlap or gaps. You may have to peel it off and reseat it a few times to get it right. Fold over the duct tape and press down. Add more duct tape inside if needed to run all the way from the top to the bottom of the inside of the gauntlet.
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Here’s what your finished gauntlet will look like. At this point, stand the gauntlet on both ends and trim off any excess to make sure it sits flat on both sides. Make sure you can get your hand in and out of it easily.

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Take the gauntlet material and sew one seam 5/8″ from the end with the right sides together.

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Fit your gauntlet into the gauntlet material to test for fit. You may have to bend the gauntlet a little to get it all the way in, but the material should not warp the gauntlet. You want at least 5/8″ of material at the narrow end so that you have enough material to attach it to the glove. If the material is too tight or too loose, you may have to add another seam or rip the existing seam to loosen it up. If it fits well, sew another seam to reinforce it.

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To attach the gauntlet material to the glove, remove the foam and turn it inside out. Line it up with the end of the glove. The shiny sides of the glove and gauntlet should be together. Pin the gauntlet material to the glove all the way around. Just as you did with the thumb, you may have to stretch the material while sewing and pinning to make sure it’s aligned properly and there are no gaps or bunches. Sew a seam at 5/8″.

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Here’s what your glove should look like now. If you’re happy with the seam, turn it inside out and sew another seam to reinforce it.

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Slide the foam gauntlet back into the gauntlet material and push it all the way down to the glove seam. Keep the duct-taped seam of the foam aligned with the underside of the glove. Fold over the excess material and tape it into place. At this point, you can sew another seam along the glove opening to keep it in place, but I didn’t want a visible seam on my gloves, so I opted to cut longer strips of duct tape and tape it all the way around to the foam.

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Here is the final gauntlet glove (bottom) next to the original pleather gauntlet glove (top).

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When you’re cutting the fabric for the next glove, don’t forget to flip the pattern pieces over before you trace them onto the fabric, so that you get pieces that work for the opposite hand.

Each glove took about 4 hours. Some of my seams needed to be ripped and repeated. It was too hard to sew the curves at the bottoms of most of the gussets using the sewing machine, so I had to do most of those areas by hand.

When I set out to remake these gloves, I really expected that I would be giving Yaya Han a good scolding for the high cost of her cosplay fabric line at Joann Fabric & Craft. But I have to admit that her 4-Way Super Stretch Black Vinyl Fabric performed quite well. It was easy to sew with my sewing machine and also by hand. When I had to tear out seams, the material wasn’t damaged, like the previous pleather. I think this material will hold up much longer.
Wonder Woman captures Cobra Commander

I finished the gloves in time to try them out at the Atlantic City Boardwalk Con. The con was hot in this costume and I did a lot of sweating, but the duct tape inside the gloves held up and the gloves remained comfortable. The material would stick against itself a little between the fingers from time to time, but not to the point of it being a problem. The gloves were very easy to put on and take off.

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